Your bathroom cabinet probably has at least one product with AHA, BHA, or retinol stamped across the front. They sound important and scientific, but do you know how to use them correctly in your daily skincare routine?
Because these are potent, active ingredients, most people either go overboard immediately or use them in the wrong order. And one bad reaction is all it takes to swear off actives forever.
Luckily, there's actually a smart middle ground that lets you harness one, two, or all three actives without your skin staging a revolt.
Read on to find out how active skincare ingredients like AHAs, BHAs, and retinol work, how to use them, and whether they are right for your skin type.
What are AHAs, BHAs, and retinol?
They’re the active ingredients in skincare products that help improve skin tone and texture. By active, we mean the main, scientifically proven compounds that do all the work.
In a nutshell, AHAs gently remove your dead skin cells from the surface, BHAs dive deep into your pores to clear out buildup, and retinol helps your skin renew itself faster.
AHAs and BHAs
AHAs and BHAs are hydroxy acids that act as chemical exfoliants for the skin. AHAs and BHAs are usually found in a variety of cleansers, toners, moisturisers, scrubs, peels and masks.
AHA stands for ‘alpha-hydroxy acid’ and includes glycolic, citric, mandelic, and lactic acid. AHAs are usually derived from sugary fruits or other natural sources.
BHA stands for ‘beta-hydroxy acid’. The BHA most commonly used in skincare is salicylic acid. BHAs can also be in the form of willow bark extract, tropic acid, or sodium salicylate.
Retinol
Retinol is a form of natural or synthetic vitamin A. Vitamin A is an antioxidant often found in over-the-counter or prescription serums or creams. It treats fine lines and collagen loss by stimulating cell turnover at the deeper layers of the skin. Evidence-based research has proven retinol’s effectiveness in treating acne, photoaging, hyperpigmentation, and mild acne scarring.
How to use AHAs, BHAs, and retinol together
The good news is you can absolutely use two or more of these active ingredients together. The trick is knowing when and how to apply them so they don't cancel each other out or cause irritation. When you space them out properly, your skin gets the full benefit of each ingredient.
Here’s everything you need to know:
Choosing the right actives for your skin type
Before you load up your shopping cart with all the actives, let’s figure out what's right for YOUR skin.
Dry skin
If this is you, reach for an AHA. Alpha-hydroxy acids hydrate while they exfoliate to enhance your skin's natural radiance and help with texture and fine lines.
Sensitive or reactive skin
If active ingredients usually cause irritation, retinol might be a better option. Start with retinol at a low concentration (0.25-0.5%). It's generally gentler than acids and offers both acne-fighting and fine line-smoothing benefits.
Oily or acne-prone skin
BHAs were made for oily or congested skin. Salicylic acid penetrates deep into pores, reduces inflammation, and clears out excess sebum or keratin. You can also add retinol for extra acne control.
Mature skin
Combine AHAs for surface renewal with retinol for deeper skin-renewing effects. AHAs improve texture and radiance, while retinol targets fine lines and firmness.
Normal skin
If your skin tolerates products well and you have multiple concerns, you can potentially use all three actives. BHA for any occasional breakouts, AHA for overall radiance and texture, and retinol for skin-renewing benefits.
Not sure about your skin type? Pick one active ingredient and test it for 3-4 weeks. Your skin's response will guide you toward what works best!
Or for a personalised skincare assessment to identify your skin type, book a consultation with an expert clinician at the Victorian Dermal Group.
Morning vs evening application
You should always, always use retinol at night, as it can break down in light and make your skin more prone to sunburn.
Whether or not you choose to use hydroxy acids in the morning or evening comes down to your daily routine. BHAs can be used morning or evening, but it’s recommended AHAs should be used at night due to increased photosensitivity (AHAs increase sun sensitivity by 50%).
As a general rule of thumb, you can use hydroxy acids on the same day as retinol as long as they are 8-12 hours apart. This way, your skin has time to absorb the product and rejuvenate before the next product application.
And, of course, whenever you exfoliate your skin, you should always wear an SPF sunscreen to protect the fresh skin from sun damage. When using AHAs, wait 10-15 minutes before applying other products to allow skin pH to normalise.
Try a skin cycling schedule
Skin cycling is a strategic approach that rotates active ingredients on different nights, giving your skin time to recover between treatments. Instead of using everything every night, you cycle through actives and include dedicated recovery periods.
When you start using any new active, start low and slow. Start with the lowest percentage available, 2-3 times per week and gradually increase as your skin builds tolerance.
If your skin is behaving, you can gradually add hydroxy acids and retinol into your skincare routine by spacing them 8-12 hours apart or using them on alternate nights. Find a routine that works for your skin to mitigate any irritation, and always remember to give your skin a night off!
If you’re using an AHA and a BHA, use one in AM, one in PM, or alternate days. If you’re confused by all those abbreviations, that’s completely normal! It can take a bit of trial and error, but this is what an advanced skin cycling routine could look like:
How not to use actives
Acids and retinol don't always work well together. However, you can use both in your skincare routine, as long as you apply them at the right times and in the correct order to minimise irritation and achieve the best results.
With so many different at-home products available, it can be easy to overstimulate the skin. Combining too many products may have the opposite effect to what you are trying to achieve. A qualified dermal clinician can assess your skin and guide you to find your ideal daily routine for radiant skin.
Using a gentle, ceramide-rich moisturiser can help to balance the effects of actives like hydroxy acids and retinol. When using any exfoliating product or retinol, you should always wear sunscreen every day to prevent sun damage and pigmentation.
Always avoid strong actives during:
- Active barrier damage (eczema, raw peeling, dermatitis)
- Recent in-clinic treatments (laser, microneedling)
- Pregnancy (retinoids contraindicated)
Products we recommend to our clients
AHA products
Synergie ReVeal
8% lactic acid, 1% mandelic acid
Best for: Sensitive, pigmented skin
Dermaceutic Light Ceutic
Glycolic + phytic acid
Best for: Photodamage, dullness
BHA products
Synergie Blem-X
0.5% salicylic acid
Best for: Acne-prone, oily skin
Retinol products
Synergie RetiFol
0.4% encapsulated retinol
Best for: Beginners, sensitive ageing skin
Biopelle Retriderm Mild/Plus
0.5–1.0% protein-bound retinol
Best for: Ageing, acne-prone, sensitive skin
Medik8 Crystal Retinal
0.03–0.1% retinaldehyde
Best for: Progressive retinoid users
Complimentary products
Dermaceutic Hyal Ceutic Redens+
Advanced Ceremides, Hyaluronic Acid
Best for: Skin barrier support
Mesoprotech Melan 130 Pigment Control
Mesoprotech® Complex, Pigment Control Complex
Best for: All skin types
When at-home actives aren’t enough
If you find using hydroxy acids too harsh for your skin, you might benefit from a chemical peel once a month or so. Consider professional treatment when:
- Your skin concerns haven't improved after 3-4 months of consistent use
- You're experiencing persistent irritation from at-home products
- You have stubborn hyperpigmentation, deep acne scars, or lines that won’t budge
- You want faster, more dramatic results
A chemical peel uses higher concentrations of acids to remove deeper layers of damaged skin, revealing fresher, smoother skin underneath. Professional peels can achieve in one session what might take months of at-home products to accomplish, with controlled application by trained clinicians who can customise the treatment strength based on what you need.
Book a skin consultation with Victorian Dermal Group
New to the world of AHAs, BHAs, and retinol? A trained clinician at Victorian Dermal Group can provide you with a personalised daily skin care plan. We'll give you details on what’s best suited to your skin type and concerns so you can start your journey to productive skin health. Book a consultation for advice on how to get glowing skin.
Using skin actives: FAQs
Can you mix AHA and BHA with retinol?
You can use them together, but not at the same time. The key is spacing them properly - use them 8-12 hours apart, such as acids in the morning and retinol at night, or alternate them on different nights. Never layer them directly in the same application, as this can cause irritation and reduce their effectiveness.
Can you use glycolic acid with retinol?
Yes, since glycolic acid is an AHA (alpha-hydroxy acid), the same spacing rules apply. Use glycolic acid in the morning and retinol at night, ensuring they're 8-12 hours apart. Avoid direct layering and always wear SPF when using glycolic acid during the day.
What can you mix with AHA?
AHAs work well with gentle moisturisers containing hyaluronic acid, which helps balance their effects and prevent dryness. You can also combine them with BHA - use one in the morning and one in the evening, or alternate days. Always pair AHAs with SPF sunscreen (ideally using a physical sunblock containing zinc oxide or titanium dioxide for maximum protection) since they increase sun sensitivity. Avoid mixing with retinol or other strong acids in the same application.
How do I safely use glycolic acid?
Start slowly when introducing glycolic acid (AHA) to your routine. Apply it every second day until your skin completely adjusts, then you can gradually increase frequency if your skin tolerates it well.
Application method:
- Apply to clean, dry skin
- Avoid the eye area
- Follow with moisturiser to prevent dryness
- Always apply SPF during the day when using glycolic acid
You can use glycolic acid in the morning (with a strong SPF) or evening, but avoid using it at the same time as retinol. If you use retinol at night, apply the glycolic acid in the morning, ensuring they're 8-12 hours apart.
